Wednesday 20th September 2006 is a day I will remember for the rest of my life.
I finish work & head to Putsborough. Its One & a half overhead at least, with double overhead sets coming in.
I get a nervous feeling in my stomach cos I know I'm gonna give it a go.
I look at where its smallest...through the rocks.
Theres a rip there so figure what the heck!
I go in & am paddling for 10 minutes. The rips not quite picked me up, & I'm getting close to the the south rock wall.
I look behind me & things are getting worse - theres a jutting out rock there & to make matters worse theres a 2ft wave coming towards me. SHIT! This is not happening.
A flukily well timed & executed duck dive & I'm out of danger & in the rip heading out the back. I'm very close to the south wall now & pretty scared.
I paddle away from the wall. I rest for a bit - shaken up.
I see a set coming - I'm in position. To late to paddle past it! Gotta go for.
I paddle, knowing I'm gonna get trashed - I do after nearly getting up on the wave.
When I submerge a surfer gets off a wave next to me & says "shit man don't you know to look over your shoulder!" smiles & paddles out the back.
Time to go in me thinks! I catch awave & don't even think about getting up - I'm clutching my board for dear life!
I get in. The news reports hurricane gordon's waves are hitting devon & cornwalls coast.
PJ's surf report warns surfers to take care!
I forgot my camera that day so the above pic's don't do the day justice. The next day was similar but slightly bigger - heres some pic's with the digital the next day.
I've made a movie too!
"OUTSIDE!"
Out through the rocks - DON'T try this at home kids!
BOSH!
Nice double overhead set...
And another..
Ok - here's the clip I've edited - amateur I know but what did you expect?!
click here
